I kept waiting for the Boone's Farm tour: "Sideways"

Even if you don't like Icehouse, how can you not like Thomas Haden Church?

Sure, his Lowell character on "Wings" may have gotten old, although that probably was due to "Wings" being in reruns on USA 24/7 for three or four years. Seriously, it was like a marathon with no end, and no one can take that much Crystal Bernard. But consider some of THC's other work, such as the underrated "Ned and Stacey" (with Debra "Grace" Messing) and "The Specials," a superhero comedy seen by pretty much nobody.

On second thought, let's just consider "Sideways," Church's unqualified comeback movie. When I heard he played a prominent role and was actually pretty good, I was pumped for this movie last year. It didn't disappoint, and I'm pretty sure it was my best film of 2004. My wife TiVoed it from HBO recently, so I got to enjoy Church and the Gang once again.

As any decent cineast -- had to look that up to make sure I spelled it right -- knows, "Sideways" presents the amazing Paul Giamatti as a struggling writer who's friends with middling actor Church. Giamatti also is a oenophile -- that's "wine freak" to you and me, Russ -- who takes Church to Central Coast wine country the week before Church's wedding. Giamatti hopes to drink wine and play golf. Church hopes to get laid. As you might guess, hijinks ensue.

The two boys come across a couple of women, perfectly played by Virginia Madsen and Sandra Oh. Madsen is a waitress and kindred spirit to Giamatti's character, while Oh is a naughty girl who gets Church's motor running. The four pal around for a few days, all while Church's wedding date looms.

On paper, this could sound kind of boring. What, two guys hanging in wine country? The foursome sitting around and yakking to each other? But when you have great writing and good actors, it's amazing how a movie can be grown-up and pretty damn funny. The writing comes courtesy of Alexander Payne, who did the excellent "Election" and not-bad "About Schmidt." Really, "Election" is a fantastic movie -- remember when Reese Witherspoon actually bothered to act? -- and if you haven't seen it ... well, shame ... shame on you.

As for the cast, Giamatti really is one of the best actors out there today, and I'm not just saying that because his dad was commissioner of Major League Baseball. Ever since "Private Parts," he's almost always been worth the price of admission. "American Splendor" ... "Cinderella Man" ... "Man on the Moon" ... hell, he was even good in "Planet of the Apes!" But this is his best, playing the worn-down man still capable of some passion ... at least when it comes to wine.

Then there's Madsen, whom I've been sweet on ever since "Electric Dreams" more than 20 years ago. She was a cute young blond in a few movies before "The Hot Spot" officially announced she could be a bad girl. Oh, man ... anyway, she never made it big, which made it all the better to see her in "Sideways," playing the subtle older woman with a soft spot for a wounded man like Giamatti.

Before I get too sappy, let's get back to Church, who is nothing short of hilarious in this movie. Hell, just listening to the guy talk, especially when he gets all puffed up and sarcastic, is great. But his shamelessness here is a real treat, from the neanderthal stuff to the pathetic comeuppance. It's hard to imagine who could have done this better, since he essentially is playing himself when it comes to the "middling actor" aspect. Now if he'd only managed to sneak an Icehouse into a scene ...